Kayak Fishing

How to Install a Fish Finder on a Kayak

How to install a fish finder on a kayak step by step: transducer mounts, cable routing, battery choice and how to avoid the leaks and noise that ruin sonar.

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The short answer

Most kayak anglers mount the screen on a track or ball mount within easy reach, put the transducer on a scupper mount, in-hull pocket or arm like the YakAttack SwitchBlade, and run a small 12V lithium battery in a box like the YakAttack CellBlok. Plan the cable route first, seal every hole and test on the water before your first trip.

Our top picks

Transducer mount Drilling Sonar quality Shallow-water safety Best for
Scupper hole mount Usually none Good Fair Kayaks with a built-in transducer scupper
In-hull (shoot-through) None Fair to good (2D best) Excellent Simple setups, no imaging
Side arm (e.g. SwitchBlade) None if you have track Very good, works for side imaging Good, flips up Imaging and live sonar
Built-in transducer pocket None Very good Very good Kayaks designed for it

How we built this guide

This guide is based on kayak maker installation instructions, fish finder manuals, accessory specs and owner reports from kayak fishing forums. We did not perform these installs for this article, so we stick to methods documented by manufacturers and widely used by owners.

Step 1: Where should the screen go?

Mount the screen where you can see it without twisting and reach it without stretching. On most kayaks that is a track or console just in front of your seat.

Sit in the kayak on land with your paddle and rod. Check that the screen will not block your paddle stroke or your cast. Many anglers use a ball mount on a track so they can adjust angle later.

Step 2: How should I mount the transducer?

Use your kayak’s built-in transducer scupper or pocket if it has one. If not, a side arm or in-hull mount are the main options.

Scupper or built-in pocket

Many fishing kayaks have a scupper or pocket made for a transducer. The maker usually sells a matching mount. This is the cleanest option.

Side arm mount

A side arm clamps to a gear track and holds the transducer over the side. It works well for side imaging and live sonar. The arm flips up when you hit shallow water.

Check the YakAttack SwitchBlade transducer arm on Amazon →

In-hull shoot-through

You glue or set the transducer inside the hull, often with a sealed goop or foam cup. There are no holes, but owners report weaker performance, and side imaging usually does not work through the hull.

Step 3: What battery and box do I need?

Most kayak fish finders run on a small 12V battery. A 7 to 10Ah lithium pack covers many full days for smaller units; bigger screens or live sonar need more.

A battery box keeps it dry and secured. Track-mounted boxes like the CellBlok keep it within reach and off the floor of the hull.

Check the YakAttack CellBlok battery box on Amazon →

Check the YakAttack 20Ah power kit on Amazon →

Step 4: How do I route the cables?

Run cables through existing hatches or rigging ports when possible. If you must drill, use a proper cable gland or thru-hull fitting and marine sealant.

Leave a drip loop so water runs off before reaching connectors. Tie down extra cable so it does not snag on your feet or pedal drive.

Step 5: How do I test it?

Paddle out to known depth and check readings. Then paddle at your normal speed and watch for signal loss.

If the bottom disappears at speed, the transducer is likely catching bubbles. Adjust angle or depth. See transducer troubleshooting.

Who it’s for / who should skip it

  • A DIY install is for: most kayak anglers with basic tools and a free afternoon.
  • Get help if you are unsure about drilling the hull or your kayak has no clear mounting spots.
  • Skip a permanent install if you only fish a few times a year. A castable sonar may be enough. See portable fish finders.

What actually matters

  • Transducer below the hull line: clean water flow gives clean sonar.
  • Battery security: a loose battery can tip or short.
  • Fuse: use an inline fuse near the battery positive lead.
  • Waterproof connections: heat-shrink connectors and dielectric grease.
  • Marketing noise: “plug-and-play” kits still need careful routing.

Garmin Striker Vivid 5cv

A popular kayak unit because of its small size, sharp screen and simple menus. Its transducer fits many kayak mounts.

Check the Garmin Striker Vivid 5cv on Amazon →

Watch-outs

  • Drilling the wrong spot can cause leaks. Measure, mark and seal well.
  • Pedal drives and rudders can catch cables. Route them away.
  • Saltwater corrodes connectors. Rinse after every trip.
  • Always fuse your battery. A short circuit on a plastic kayak is dangerous.

All-in-one combo

If you want a matching battery box and transducer arm in one purchase, the CellBlok with SwitchBlade combo covers both.

Check the YakAttack CellBlok with SwitchBlade combo on Amazon →

Which setup should you choose?

  • Choose the built-in scupper if your kayak has one.
  • Choose a side arm if you want side imaging or live sonar.
  • Choose in-hull if you want no holes and only need basic 2D sonar.

Common questions

Do I have to drill my kayak to install a fish finder?

Not always. Many kayaks have rigging ports, scuppers and gear tracks that let you install with no drilling at all.

What size battery for a kayak fish finder?

Many anglers use 7 to 10Ah for small units and 20Ah or more for larger screens or live sonar. Check your unit’s power draw.

Can I use side imaging on a kayak?

Yes, with a scupper or arm mount where the transducer sits in the water. It usually does not work through the hull.

Where do I put the transducer on a pedal kayak?

Many pedal kayaks have a dedicated transducer pocket away from the drive. Use it to avoid turbulence from the prop.

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